Steyr Puch Haflinger
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  • Re: Schweizer Armee Haflinger stromlos

    If you now have NO electrical power at all, you will still need a multimeter to find the point at which the electricity stops. Start at the battery, one wire from the multimeter should be connected to the bodywork of the Haflinger. the other you can now use to see where the break in the power is happening. Start with touching the other terminal of the
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Sun, Jul 21 2019
  • Re: Schweizer Armee Haflinger stromlos

    Hi Martin, Yes, if the only issue is the power to the Dynastart is not there, then both the oil light and the charge light on the dashboard will light up. When the engine is running then the charge light will remain turned on. You need to check if there is electricity getting to the Dynastart when you hear the "clack" sound. It is not common
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Mon, Jul 15 2019
  • Re: Schweizer Armee Haflinger stromlos

    It sounds like the Dynastart needs new brushes (Coals). Do you have the starting handle? If so you could get the engine running that, but I would guess the red ignition light would stay on even when the engine is running. Is the battery fully charged? Put it on charge over night and try again in the morning. Another issue could be the Starting relay
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Sat, Jul 13 2019
  • Re: Gelenkwelle Haflinger CH Armee Baujahr 1962 Manschettenwechsel

    Disconnect the brake line. Remove the top and bottom swivel pins. Pull the hub from the drive shaft. Remove old split rubber cuff. Put new rubber cuff on after filling CV joint with new grease as per the manual. Slide drive shaft back into axle. Replace top and bottom swivel pins. Reconnect brake line and bleed brake. Job done! John
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Mon, Jun 3 2019
  • Re: Gelenkwelle Haflinger CH Armee Baujahr 1962 Manschettenwechsel

    Which cuff it torn? The one near the differential or the one near the wheel? For the one near the differential, which sort of cuff have you got? There are two sorts:- 1. All one piece, you have to dismantle the hub and preferably the axle arm in order to get the drive shaft through the cuff. then re-assemble the axle arm back on to the differential
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Thu, May 23 2019
  • Re: Vorstellung und gleich eine Frage

    It could also be because the brushes (coals) need to be replaced. Or the rotating part (Armature) which the brushes rub on is no longer round but has become dirty and oval. It could also be because the regulator is faulty. As above it could be that the external fuse has broken. John
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Fri, Nov 23 2018
  • Re: Leistungsprobleme zwischen 4000 und 5000U/min

    Change the condenser? John
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Fri, Jun 15 2018
  • Re: LED-Lampen für Scheinwerfer

    I bought and fitted HID headlights (designed for a kit car). Bulbs are 25 watt, but with the ballast needed to run the bulbs, Dip beam is 38 watts. Main beam is 43 watts (per side), so just a little more than standard. I have a lot of fun with the lights. I know of LED headlights that will physically fit your body for a cool night out, but you'll
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Mon, Aug 7 2017
  • Re: Dynastarter - Verkabelung

    You should be able to work out the wiring diagram in the repair manual. If you have not got a repair manual then you can look at the following: http://www.goatwerks.com/haflingertechstuff.html John
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Fri, Aug 4 2017
  • Re: H 700 AP Getriebeproblem 2. Gang springt raus

    I think it's going to be wrong. You could try to re-adjust the gearbox, but the gearbox can not be moved Can only be set with the gearbox out of the vehicle. John
    Erstellt in Haflinger (Forum) von John Bennett am Tue, Jun 6 2017
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